An Honest Trip Report: Tour du Mont Blanc

10 Days; Three Countries; Many Miles

Hi all:

I’ve been home for a week — jet lag is behind me, I’m almost over the virus I picked up, and still wowed by the blue sky, bright sunshine, colorful wildflowers, and vast mountain range photos I’ve been flipping through. The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) offered mega challenge and great beauty.

The 10-day trek took us through three countries — France, Switzerland, and Italy —and, thanks to our travel company, we experienced it in luxury: daily baggage transfers, lovely hotels, delicious dinners, and hot showers every evening.

Even with that support, the hiking was tough. Each day meant 7 to 11 miles of hiking in 80º sun, with about 3,000 feet of elevation gain and loss. Every step was our own —powered by our legs and mental grit.

Midway through the trek, I was hit hard by a virus that started with a sore throat and laryngitis. On the first day it really took hold, I struggled to breathe deeply. I’d hike 20 feet, rest, then keep going — it was a slow push to the summit, which that day marked the border between France and Italy. Thankfully, a fellow hiker had an extra inhaler, which eased my breathing and helped me finish the climb.

After that, I missed a few days on the trail as my body recovered and gathered strength. On one of those days, I hiked solo between Argentière and Chamonix and took the train back at day’s end. I enjoyed that solo time — I often hike alone at home, and it felt familiar and grounding.

Our group of 10 women from Maine was a joy to travel with. We were supportive, kind, fun, funny, and spending time together was a trip highlight.

But here’s a story about a not-so-lovely hiking companion:

Our TMB tour was organized through a company that runs hikes around the world with top-notch local guides — a great option if you want all the details dealt with. The downside (which was also, in part, an upside) was that we were joined by six strangers from around the U.S. Four were easy-going and positive additions. Two were more challenging — one, in particular, was beyond difficult.

It was a guy, and I knew from our first dinner — sitting across from him — that he was an ass. Over the 10 days, his behavior was nearly unbearable: constant mansplaining, self-centeredness, zero interest in others, and a know-it-all attitude that culminated in him screaming at one of our group members on the final hike. My friend handled herself beautifully, and our guide stepped in to defuse the tension. But watching a grown man yell at a fellow hiker on the trail was both upsetting and clarifying. This is one reason I often choose to adventure with women — and why the LAC means so much to many of us. We don’t denigrate — we lift each other up.

On the day I was struggling, he made a snide comment about my slow pace. When I told him I was sick, he offered to carry my pack. I declined. Then he offered to hike with me, to which I replied, “I’d rather hike alone.” If one of my friends had offered to carry my pack, I probably would’ve said yes. But not with this guy.

Anyway, he was only a blip in an amazing adventure and didn’t detract from the highs of achievement.

I’m not sure I’ll sign up for another 10-day hike at this level — it turns out I enjoy a bit of downtime and like my vacations a little more vacation-y. But others in the group (looking at you, Kate) loved it and would sign up for a similar adventure lickety-split.

There were a multitude of positives and I’m proud of my hard work (including the training in preparation) and loved my time in the mountains. I do recommend this trip — and if you do it, luggage transfer is a must!

Feel free to reach out if you’re considering it or have questions. I know two people hiking it soon — one in July and one in August — and I can’t wait to hear their stories.

Happy adventuring,

Gillian